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Frequently Asked Questions
The most frequently asked question is: How does it work?
It's very simple really. You don't touch your engine. A small
container (Hydroxy Booster) is placed in the car, somewhere under the hood. You
fill it with water. The device is supplied with electricity
(12 Volts) from the battery, and via electrolysis it produces HHO gas (Hydrogen+Oxygen, Oxyhydrogen)
The HHO gas is supplied to the engine via intake manifold or carb.
The gas then helps your gasoline burn more efficiently,
while producing its own combustion. That added combustion of the
hydrogen gives you more power, and ultimately requires less gasoline
to run your engine, resulting, in better gas mileage.
to It seems like it violates the laws of physics? But it doesn't. We
know that splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen by electrolysis
requires more energy than you get by burning the hydrogen produced.
But in our case HHO gas acts as a catalyst to better burn your gasoline and is increasing your engine efficiency.
What is hydroxy gas?
It is the gas produced when water is broken down by electrolysis into a mixture of hydrogen gas and oxygen gas.
What is a booster?
A booster is a simple, compact, electrolyzer which
produces low volumes of gas which, when added to the air entering the
engine, improves the burn quality of the engine’s normal fuel. It
reduces unwanted emissions, produces more pulling power, cleans out old
carbon deposits inside the engine, and can often improve mpg
What is an electrolyte?
An electrolyte is a chemical added to water to make electrolysis easier. The best electrolytes do not get consumed during electrolysis.
What are the best electrolytes?
The best electrolytes are potassium hydroxide (KOH) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) as they are true catalysts which do not get consumed during electrolysis. Never, ever use baking soda, salt or battery acid as these damage your electrolyzer, produce harmful gas outputs and are consumed during electrolysis.
What is an electrode?
An electrode is a piece of metal which is placed in the electrolyte to allow electrical current to be passed through the electrolyte.
What materials make the best electrodes?
Years of testing has shown that 316L-grade (“food-grade”) stainless steel is the best metal to use. Metals which are completely unsuitable include copper, aluminum and platinum.
How big should electrodes be?
Electrodes get eroded with use if the area of (one side of) the electrode is less than 2 square inches (1290 square mm) per amp of current carried. Erosion reduces and gas production is improved with increasing electrode area up to 4 square inches per amp. Above that, no noticeable improvement is seen.
How thick should electrodes be?
The only limit on how thin the electrode material can be is the practical issue of holding it securely in place. It is usual for the gap between electrodes to be quite small, so 20 gauge or 22 gauge - say 1/16 inch is generally chosen. Thicker plates weigh more, cost more and take up more space.
Do the electrodes wear out?
In a properly designed and operated electrolyzer, the plates will be in first-class condition after a year of use.
Can I buy one ready-made?
Yes, there are a few available at this time. Personally, I would recommend the GFx1 Dry Cell on this websites store.
Can I make my own?
Yes you can use the information here on this web site to build you own.
What is an electrolyzer?
An electrolyzer is a device intended to convert water to hydroxy gas in considerable volumes and at the minimum possible current. There are several designs which you could build.
Can I make my own?
If you have a reasonable level of skill (or have a friend who has), then yes, certainly you can build one.
What current is needed?
Electrical current is usually in the 5 amps to 20 amps range.
Do I need to know electronics?
Not for making a booster. When making an advanced electrolyzer, then it can be useful.
What safety devices are needed?
At least one, and preferably two “bubblers” prevent damage if the engine backfires. They also wash any traces of electrolyte vapor out of the gas being fed to the engine.
How are bubblers made?
Very easily, from any tall plastic container with a tight lid. The pipe carrying the gas is inserted through the lid to near the bottom of the container, which is then filled to at least a 5-inch depth of water. The gas takeoff pipe is inserted through the lid for half an inch or so, and shielded from splashes.
How can I measure gas output?
Generally, you don’t need to. If you want to, then fill a basin with water. Fill a plastic soda bottle with water and position it upside down with the neck under the water in the basin. Feed the tube from your bubbler up into the neck of the bottle, and measure the length of time taken to fill the bottle with gas. If the bottle is 2 liters and it takes four minutes to fill it with gas, then the gas production rate is 2 liters / 4 minutes = 0.5 lpm.
How much gas do I need for my engine size?
It depends to a large extent on the engine design and vehicle weight, but in general, Bob Boyce indicates that 100 lpm of hydroxy gas should run engines up to 2 liters in capacity and 200 lpm engines up to 4 liters in size.
How is a booster connected to a vehicle?
Through a bubbler or flashback preventer and then into the air filter or air plenum.
How much water will be used?
One liter of water produces about 1,850 liters of hydroxy gas. So, a Gfx1 Booster producing 1.3 lpm of hydroxy gas will used 1 liter of water in 23.7 hours of running. An electrolyzer producing 100 lpm of hydroxy gas will use 1 liter of water in 18.5 minutes of running.
Can I use any kind of water?
It is highly recommended that you use distilled or de-ionized
water as other varieties leave residues behind when the water becomes gas.
What happens if I forget to top the booster up with water?
The electrodes will become partially uncovered and the gas production will drop off, so you should keep an eye on the water level.
Can I use a booster with a diesel?
Yes. There is a theoretical limit where there must be 20% of diesel fuel in the cylinder, but it would be nearly impossible to produce hydroxy gas fast enough to exceed this upper limit.
Can I use a booster with a turbocharger?
Yes. Just feed the hydroxy gas to the low-pressure side of the turbocharger.
Does the engine timing need to be changed?
With a booster, there is no need until gas production approaches 3 lpm. At this point, the hydroxy gas ceases to be a fossil fuel enhancer and starts to become a second fuel in its own right. As the gas production rate increases further, the spark timing needs to be delayed (“retarded”) gradually. The maximum delay is to a point some 12 degrees after Top Dead Center. This is not something you are likely to need to bother about for quite some time.
Will my engine rust?
No more than usual - actually, less than usual as hydroxy gas is a very helpful additive and/or fuel.
What is the difference between Hydrogen in pressurized tanks compared to Brown's Gas or egas or hydroxy gas?
Mr Brown’s invention allows oxygen and hydrogen extracted from ordinary tap water to be used safely for almost any type of burning fuel. He envisages the day when cars, stoves, heating and most of industry can be run on water or the gas extracted from it. He has perfected his invention in a cutting and welding torch, similar to an oxyacetylene torch, which is 30 times cheaper than present torches and burns with a flame seven times hotter. Hydrogen in a pressurized tank is para-hydrogen as Brown's gas a combo of hydrogen and oxygen is ortho-hydrogen, a different property of hydrogen that has a stronger combustion properties, if used right away. On board electrolysis, make the egas as you drive is by far the cleanest fuel on the planet.
Made plenty of the generators and they work well, but the sludging up does create a serious problem and is a curse. It is obviously iron or steel leached out of the stainless steel and I just can't get around it.Do you have any suggestions to eliminate this ? if so can you tell me how to do it. I have a 30amp speed controller hooked up to the system and man it really produces the E gas! heeps of it. But as the sludge builds up, down goes the efficiency of the unit?
Yes, there is an answer! I found out about a month ago if you add dummy plates, or neutral plates between the pos. and neg. electrode plates, they absorb voltage. See my attachment. I now use 15 plates. (The most that I can fit into a 4" cylinder. ) Our plate configuration is as follows ?: ( - n n n + + n n n - -nnn+ ) The water in the cell does not get so hot and the anode red mud/sludge slows way down. You still get some but not like before.
My theory is that 12 volts in electrolysis, is fine for the first 5 minutes, until the water hears up. (1.8 volts) is where the break off point is of no heat exchange. The 12 & 15 plate cell I have now, takes awhile for it to get warm, about 1/2 hour.
One thing though, if you add the neutral plates (all insulated about 1/8" apart) they don't give off much bubbles, until after they get worked in and all absorbed with hydrogen. (one week)
The sludge is the impurities in the water being oxidized and some iron out of the electrodes, and we have been cooking them. They make steam as well, it burns too!
Another thing, your amperage will drop way down. Instead of my usual 1/2 teaspoon of electrolyte, you have to use 3 tablespoons of electrolyte to get back up to 20 amps. 25amps when it heats up after a 1/2 hour of driving in warm climate. In cold climate you make never experience the amps going up. Do you blow 30 amp fuses alot? Are you getting better gas mileage? More horsepower?
I have only one question about the hydrogen booster. Is the device supposed to make your car run completely on water/hydrogen? or on a mix of water/hydrogen and gasoline?
A mix. . Just a gas mileage saver for now. The same hydroxy gas if you produce enough of it can run a car purely on water, if you ever make one, don't tell anybody, As soon as the word gets out, the feds will be at your door.
The transition from gas to water will have to be gradual, I would like it to happen over night, and that is what they are afraid of. They are pushing all of us with their gas prices and wars & military bases, all funded by the energy dept. and our tax dollars.
To get enough hydroxy gas you have to brake the 1825 laws of Faraday (far - a - day -ago) easy today with all the modern electronics, split the water with the right frequency and quadruple the amps with 2 volts and you have it! Many are working on it.
Will I have to mess with my car's oxygen sensors to get better mpg.?
Most larger motors, have the computers set to full gas guzzle mode. When the Oxygen Sensor (extra pollution device) senses a lean emission, sensing oxygen in the exhaust (lean air/gas mixture) it tells the computer to dump more gas , as if to quench the fire with too much fuel, resulting in an extra smoggy, smelly ride, but powerful and robust. Not needed today in a time of crisis.
Too offset this problem you can install an EIFE, or use a Map/Maf enhancer or both. With 96 and newer cars, you can disconnect the oxy sensor and run a Scangauge on your dash.
How does a hydrogen gen work?
12 volts from your battery going to 2 electrodes in a water container that can take up to boiling temp.s, separates hydrogen gas on the cathode (-) rod and oxygen gas comes off the anode (+) rod from H2O with a 1-3% solution of electrolyte. KOH is the best electrolyte, but you can use lye, sulfuric acid. KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) is a base for the electrolysis to happen. Buy at chemical suppliers. The combo of Hydrogen & oxygen gases mix together burn clean and output a high combustion. Called hydroxy gas or egas. They act like a catalyst to your gasoline or propane burning engines. As long as you burn the gas as you drive their is no danger of storing/compressing the gases in tanks (like propane)
That is the whole idea of "On Board Electrolysis Fuel Cells". Only make enough gas as you need. After you build a hydro-booster it gets you to thinking, hey if this works why not make one that produces enough gas to run my car totally on water! That is the part the DOE, the Oil Corp.s do not want you to do. It will cut them off someday.So a gradual moving away from fossil fuels is on it's way. A hydrogen booster is the first step. 100% Water as a Fuel is the goal. Also remember "perfect love casts out all fear" the Bible says that. So Go for it Dude!
What most of us don't know is that during warm up and acceleration the EFI (electronic fuel injection) engine does indeed run with a rich mixture, but during cruise the engine control unit (ECU) runs in wWhat about the leaner air/fuel mixture and the possibility of burning valves?
Exhaust Gas Temperature, Lean Mixtures, and Burning Valves
Will operating my vehicle at a leaner mixture with GFx1, cause damage to my valves?
taken from: Hydrogen-boost.com
With Hydrogen-Boost seeking to run on the leanest air/fuel mixture that has acceptable torque and power, in pursuit of the best possible gas mileage, we have had repeated questions from misinformed customers concerning whether they would burn their valves by running the extra lean mixture.
I am sure the misinformation comes from the aviation field. Being an aviator until last year's near fatal experimental aircraft accident, I know that piston engine aircraft take off and climb at maximum power, and cruise at a leaner mixture, watching the EGT gauge to insure a safe temperature. Of course we all assume that safe temperature means a temperature that doesn't burn the valves.
This information gets us to assume that an electronic fuel injected engine runs at the rich mixture that is cool enough to protect the valves from burning. Most also assume that if we lean out the mixture we will be in danger of burning the valves. A too hot exhaust gas temperature also would indicate a too hot combustion temperature that happens to produce NOx, the oxides of nitrogen that are considered as toxic pollution.
hat is called closed loop operation, which targets a 14.7 to 1 air fuel ratio. This ratio is called stoichiometric, meaning that there is a perfect mixture of air and fuel to insure complete combustion. This also happens to be the perfect mixture to get the highest temperature of combustion, and therefore the highest exhaust gas temperature (EGT). Any leaner (more air) mixture will cause a cooler combustion, and any richer (more fuel) mixture will also cause a cooler combustion.
The following quote was obtained from http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm and is chemically accurate:
Some gauge manufacturers say you should tune to achieve maximum or peak EGT for maximum performance. This is incorrect. Peak EGT generally occurs at an AFR of around 14.7- 15.0 to 1 on gasoline. This is far too lean for maximum power and is dangerous under continuous WOT conditions. Many people think that the leaner you go, the higher the EGT gets. This is also incorrect. Peak EGT occurs at stoichiometry- about 15 to 1 for our purposes. If you go richer than 15 to 1, EGT will drop and if you go leaner than 15 to 1 EGT will ALSO drop. It is VERY important to know which side of peak EGT you are on before making adjustments. It is safe to say that peak power will occur at an EGT somewhat colder than peak
As you can probably figure out by now, leaning the mixture from the target 14.7 to 1 will NOT cause a hotter exhaust nor will it cause you to burn your valves. This is not to say that leaning the ECU's program under all conditions will cause a cooler exhaust. There is one condition that could be hotter and that would be running at WOT (wide open throttle) at 14.7 to 1 instead of the programmed 13 to 1. A continuous running at this condition might indeed burn your valves.
But how often would a mileage conscientious driver equipped with Hydrogen-Boost want to run at WOT for extended periods of time at 14.7 to 1 mixture? First of all a conscientious driver would be following the driving tips in the manual which discourages WOT driving all together, say nothing about an extended WOT operation. Also if a Hydrogen-Boost system is adjusted properly, it will be running at a much higher (leaner) mixture than 14.7 to 1, even at full throttle.
Being a research scientist, I don't like to take anyone's word for anything so I have ordered two EGT gauges, both of which can read the temperatures of two sensors. I will verify all that has been written in this newsletter and will report the results in a later issue.
So to answer the original question:
Will operating my vehicle at a leaner mixture with Hydrogen-Boost, cause damage to my valves? NO.
On June 11th I finally installed one of my EGT gauges. The probe had a rather short lead so I ended up running with the EGT gauge on top of my hood, rubber banded to the windshield wiper. I had to drill and tap a hole for the threaded probe, which worked out fine. It was a little tight for space inside the engine compartment so I used a right angle portable drill and a socket and ratchet on the tap.
Once the probe was warmed up I cruised at a constant speed and throttle setting and dialed in a leaner fuel mixture while watching the gauge. What is claimed above regarding EGT and fuel ratio was indeed verified. At cruise the EGT was about 10 degrees cooler at 13:1 air/fuel ratio than it was at 14.7:1. At 17:1 it was also 10 degrees cooler. At 19:1 it was 20 degrees cooler, and at 21:1 it was 30 degrees cooler. The temperature really had more to do with the throttle setting than anything else. At high throttle settings the EGT was in the 900s, at high cruise in the 800s, at medium cruise in the 700s, at low cruise in the 600s, and at idle in the 500s. With this large range of temperatures the small change due to fuel ratio was insignificant.
One thing that is notable is the fact that any set power output typically produced the same or similar temperatures, regardless of the fuel ratio. Even though the higher fuel ratio caused a lower temperature at a set throttle position, to keep the same power it took a slightly more open throttle, which caused the temperature to rise back to the same reading as the lower ratio and throttle setting that produced the same power. Of course this was not quite true with those full throttle, rich ratio conditions when the EGT is hot but not as hot as it would be at 14.7:1 fuel ratio.
The throttle setting determined more than just the EGT, it determined the amount of temperature drop that was caused by the increasing fuel ratio. At idle there was only a 5-10 degree drop, but at higher throttle settings there was more than a 40 degrees of drop.
Will the GFx1 void my warrentee?
taken from: Hydrogen-boost.com
Many have asked whether Hydrogen Boost will void their warrantee. The short answer is NO. The long answer is an explanation of what a warrantee is. It is obvious that you are asking the wrong question. The proper question is, “If I have Hydrogen Boost installed on my vehicle can my manufacturer refuse to pay for fixing my car?” The answer is the same as for anything added to your vehicle. For example if you change your tires to a different brand than what the vehicle came with, can the manufacturer refuse to pay for fire damage under my hood. Well, that would depend on whether the tires caused the fire. If the tire blew out and caused you to run off the road and crash into a tree, leaking gasoline and catching fire, yes the manufacture could say, “No, we are not responsible for that fire damage so we won’t pay. So if something about the Hydrogen Boost system, like improper installation, causes damage to your engine, don’t expect the manufacturer to pay for the damage done. The main thing that could cause damage is dumping a water solution of strong chemicals into your engine. That can not happen with a properly installed Hydrogen Boost system but if you ignore the installation instructions because you are a great experimenter who “knows what he’s doing” then you could cause damage. There is nothing about the Hydrogen Boost system that can cause damage by itself. Only improper installation or use can possibly cause damage that the manufacturer should not pay for because of his warrantee. If you can read and follow instructions, you won’t cause any damage and the manufacturer is bound to repair your vehicle of any damage not caused by you.
RE: The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Federal law sets forth requirements for warranties and contains a number of provisions to prevent vehicle manufacturers, dealers and others from unjustly denying warranty coverage. With regard to aftermarket parts, warranty coverage cannot be denied simply because such parts are present on the vehicle. The warranty coverage cannot be denied unless the aftermarket part is proven to have caused the malfunction or damage.
Magnuson Moss Warranty Act
US Code - Title 15, Chapter 50, Sections 2301-2312 Legally, a vehicle manufacturer can not void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle (per the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C)). If your vehicle manufacturer fails to honor the warranty, contact the FTC at (202) 326-3128 or www.ftc.gov .
We will add more FAQ's as they come in, please come back soon.